11 Tweets 14 reads Dec 19, 2022
HOW TO LOOK BETTER WITHOUT EXERCISE ๐Ÿงต
I want to share with you how you can look better without exercise. To be sure, exercise is good and will improve your life in all sorts of ways. But it's hard and not that fun to do. So here's how to get some of the effects through clothing
A friend of mine on StyleForum (emptym) shared with me these two photos of him in two bespoke sport coats. Left is by WW Chan; right is by I Sarti Italiani. These are made from the same cloth, and worn by the same person, so it makes for easy comparison.
First, we should look at how suit jackets and sport coats are constructed. Unlike casualwear, which is typically made from just one piece of cloth (like a trucker jacket), suits and sport coats are made from multiple layers of material to give the final jacket shape
For example, look at how these materials roll. Haircloth is made from horsehair, so it's very wiry. This material is typically put into the chest to give the area shape. Not pictured here is the padding that goes into the shoulder line, which can also create shape.
These materials are layered on top of each other. The combo of haircloth, canvassing, padding, pad stitching (a type of stitching that can give fabric shape), and careful ironing (which again creates shape) means that the final jacket has its own silhouette.
The trend nowadays is for very deconstructed jackets with as little material inside as possible. Also, short and skimpy suits. People often have a very clinical view of whether a suit fits, such as whether the shoulder seam sits on the shoulder bone. The result looks like this:
But look at what happens when you add structure and allow a coat to breathe. These two jackets are very diff.
Left chest sits closer to the body. It's slim and narrow. The right chest is fuller and rounder. This is a result of how these two tailors used haircloth differently
The two jackets are also cut very differently. Left has relatively narrow shoulders and a flared skirt. Right has extended shoulders and a skirt that sits closer to the hips.
It's easier to extend the shoulders when your jacket has a little more padding.
The person in the photos (emptym) is actually a pretty athletic dude and fairly involved in sports. But you can see how, on the same build, you can create the illusion of a more V-shaped torso.
This is not to say that this is the only way to look good!!
There are lots of shapes possible through clothing, and you can be classical or not classical. Sometimes looking good has nothing to do with flattering the body. Sometimes good silhouettes can be disfiguring! See CdG:
But if you wear suits or sport coats, and you're just starting to think about how clothes can flatter the body, start with the statue of David. Good tailoring can confer the illusion of a v-shaped torso with straight columnar legs without requiring you to hit the gym.
/end

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