Observations on life in a small-city in Hunan - Conclusion!
This is the last thread about Chenzhou/Zixing. It started out as a commentary on the "median Chinese citizen" and turned into an investigation of tourism development.
Now I want to talk about Covid effects and FOOD.
This is the last thread about Chenzhou/Zixing. It started out as a commentary on the "median Chinese citizen" and turned into an investigation of tourism development.
Now I want to talk about Covid effects and FOOD.
The image above is from a huge property development in front of the Chenzhou West Train Station.
From the train station, it looks impressive, but walking up close, you can see most of the storefronts have no tenants and probably only 30% of the units are occupied.
From the train station, it looks impressive, but walking up close, you can see most of the storefronts have no tenants and probably only 30% of the units are occupied.
I had walked over to the property development to get some food. ONE noodle shop was still open - every other shop had a padlock on the door & a "for rent" sign on the door.
The boss of the one noodle shop told me these apartments were completed in 2019 just before covid hit.
The boss of the one noodle shop told me these apartments were completed in 2019 just before covid hit.
He said not all the units are unsold - some of the owners bought the units as 毛坯房 investments, waiting for them to appreciate, but they haven't gained value since travel to Chenzhou is down. Or they can't afford to renovate.
Hasn't cooled this developer's ambitions next door:
Hasn't cooled this developer's ambitions next door:
This was originally intended to be a high-end community, with an international kindergarten that never opened and an (empty) boutique grocery that wouldn't be out of place in SH.
I pause to look at a real esate board and a hopeful agent tells me apts here are just 4000 RMB/sqm.
I pause to look at a real esate board and a hopeful agent tells me apts here are just 4000 RMB/sqm.
Back in Zixing, I some similar things: New residential property developments with mostly empty storefronts at the street level.
Developers either overestimated the demand growth for commercial property in this small city, or Covid-induced tourism decline just froze it in place.
Developers either overestimated the demand growth for commercial property in this small city, or Covid-induced tourism decline just froze it in place.
Zixing also shows other signs of economic reconfiguration: factories that shut down as the city reorients to tourism.
I passed a few, open to walk in & take a look around. This one used to make cleaning products? I find these pics haunting, like scenes from the US Rust Belt.
I passed a few, open to walk in & take a look around. This one used to make cleaning products? I find these pics haunting, like scenes from the US Rust Belt.
Zixing is also a great place to observe the EXACT border between China's countryside and urbanized ares. Sometimes it's right across the street.
I've always seen the "high-rises next to fields" situation from trains, but this was my first time walking through it.
I've always seen the "high-rises next to fields" situation from trains, but this was my first time walking through it.
I wish this wheelchair's owner was there to chat with when I walked by. I bet they'd have amazing tales of Zixing to share as they watch dusk fall over the fields & the twinkling lights of the high-rises appear.
Who am I kidding? I wouldn't be able to understand a word they say.
Who am I kidding? I wouldn't be able to understand a word they say.
Awkward segue, but here's one of Zixing's 2 hospitals. That's it; that's the building. Look how cute it is! A bust of Hippocrates out front surprised me.
After-hours I just wandered in. No one around to care.
PCR test results were in a pile at the front desk. Self-serve! lol
After-hours I just wandered in. No one around to care.
PCR test results were in a pile at the front desk. Self-serve! lol
Overall, I feel the city is getting by. More of their tourists come from Hunan and nearby provinces, since few travel across the country and of course the foreign tourists are totally gone.
I didn't get the feeling they were struggling, just treading water and waiting.
I didn't get the feeling they were struggling, just treading water and waiting.
And in general, tourist-oriented restaurants in Zixing are still doing ok too (that's my segue to food by the way).
Besides the salmon, which I mentioned before, the other culinary specialty is 柴火 food, or food cooked in a giant pot with firewood, rural kitchen style.
Besides the salmon, which I mentioned before, the other culinary specialty is 柴火 food, or food cooked in a giant pot with firewood, rural kitchen style.
The restaurant built a giant wok into the table with basically a furnace concealed under the table. Staff add wood & cook up a huge pot of fresh fish soup and veggies in front of you.
I'm kinda jaded about gimmicky dining experiences, but this was fun. Rice wine was good too.
I'm kinda jaded about gimmicky dining experiences, but this was fun. Rice wine was good too.
Here's another firewood cooking place a few nights later. We got duck this time.
Tasty, but probably one of the spiciest things I've had on this trip. And my tolerance is quite high, as you should know.
Last pic is "their" logo. Does it...ah...look...familiar to anyone? 🙃
Tasty, but probably one of the spiciest things I've had on this trip. And my tolerance is quite high, as you should know.
Last pic is "their" logo. Does it...ah...look...familiar to anyone? 🙃
Oh! Speaking of things that may or may not look familiar.
Check out the font for this shopping plaza's logo "Micro Hills City". Especially the M and H...
Also check out this "self-servile bank". No connection to MHC...just a funny typo.
Check out the font for this shopping plaza's logo "Micro Hills City". Especially the M and H...
Also check out this "self-servile bank". No connection to MHC...just a funny typo.
It's hard to say whether Zixing is doing well, average, or worse than other county-level cities in China. It's got tourism, but the tourism is lousy recently. Their economy isn't very diversified, so they are vulnerable, but also covid hasn't hit Hunan badly, so they're KINDA ok.
To circle back to my theme that started the story...if you don't take the time to learn about the prefecture-level cities and the even-smaller county-level cities beneath them, you'll ALWAYS be worse at your China-related job.
Sales, consulting, natsec, it doesn't matter.
Sales, consulting, natsec, it doesn't matter.
I realize that for many, it's a big challenge to get over to China right now, much less get out into the provinces. But if you take your CN work seriously, you've got to do it.
And when you get here, talk to everyone. Ask open questions. Let them ramble. Listen to them ramble.
And when you get here, talk to everyone. Ask open questions. Let them ramble. Listen to them ramble.
You won't always find a superstar interviewee like Mrs. Xu. You'll have plenty of chats that go nowhere, or only confuse you.
But when you get those amazing talks, it's so worth it. There's NO substitute for it. It's like a window to insight opens in your brain. I love it.
But when you get those amazing talks, it's so worth it. There's NO substitute for it. It's like a window to insight opens in your brain. I love it.
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